
“Beautiful soup, so rich and green
Waiting in a hot tureen!
Who for such dainties would not stoop?
Soup of the evening, beautiful soup!
Beautiful soup! Who cares for fish,
Game, or any other dish?
Who would not give all else for two
Pennyworth of beautiful soup?”
- Lewis Carroll, Alice in Wonderland
Soup is soothing to both eater and cook. The best kinds that are a delight both to make and eat are made with simple, basic ingredients: good broth and lots of memories. Flavors inspired by kitchens past are incomparable when they mingle in an aromatic, warm, comforting bowl of soup!
I had the chance to make Chicken Sotanghon Soup one wintry weekend. There was leftover rotisserie chicken from Costco and staple stock ingredients in the fridge, dried noodles in the pantry, and an itch in my hands to cook something. I’d been feeling out of sorts the whole week because I was still recovering from jetlag and had a knot of thoughts in my head—and I thought this malady could only be cured in the kitchen.

Sotanghon is the Filipino version of bean thread noodles. Called glass or cellophane noodles in other cultures, they’re made from mung bean starch (not rice flour like its culinary cousin, the bihon) and cook up transparent. They’re served in soups or as a dry noodle dish, as in stir-fried with vegetables, wood ears and tofu.
One of my absolute favorite things to do in the kitchen is prep cooked chicken for soups or salads. Many people find the task laborious and time consuming, especially when the meat has to be flaked off of a whole chicken and you have to deal with chicken bones and the sinewy stuff that holds all that meat together. I actually like to sit and take my time doing so, transforming a sinewy, bony mess like this…

…into clean, neat threads of chicken meat, like this! (Ahhh. So…pretty, no? Heehee.)

The process is very therapeutic, like calling order to chaos. My Lola Pin, who’s my mom’s mom, made her version of this soup for many years. She flaked the chicken meat patiently, humming while she worked. She did it with clinical precision (she was a nurse, after all) and was always calm and concentrated. Maybe this is why I love doing it, too.

I made my version of a mirepoix with garlic, onion, leeks, celery and ginger. Sauteed some baby bella mushrooms that were getting bored in the fridge from neglect, poured in some chicken stock, and let the broth come to a boil. Added the flaked chicken and simmered the mixture for about 15 minutes, or until the meat was tender and the broth took on its flavor. Dropped in the sotanghon noodles (which had been woken up from sleep through a 15-minute soak in a water bath—you’ll see this in the top left corner of the picture above.) Cooked the mixture for only about five minutes more as the noodles cook fast.
(Don’t ask me for a recipe—even as a stickler for rules, I always go by feel with this, just like Lola Pin!)
I topped off the happy stew with some thin slices of red bell pepper, so the eyes had something colorful to feast on before the mouth did!

Maybe even Alice would like to share a bowl of this soup with the Mad Hatter, and even the Queen of Hearts may very well approve.